The Bieras

South of the Douro and north of the Tagus lies the little-known but dramatic region of Beiras. This is a place of marked contrasts - a temperate coastline, deep forests and the highest mountains in the country. The heart of ancient Portugal - the last stand against the Romans took place here - it's traditional and unspoiled. It's also full of culinary delights, from the raw power of the Serra da Estrela cheese to ovos moles, the exquisite egg paste cakes from Aveiro, and the origin of Dao, one of Portugal 's finest red wines.

The coast has superb and often deserted beaches pounded by Atlantic breakers that attract die-hard surfers. The main resort, Figueira da Foz, also hosts a beach football tournament every summer, with star players joining in the fun.

At the centre of the region is Coimbra , one of the world's oldest university towns, and birthplace of Portuguese kings. At its liveliest during term time, it's also home to a very distinctive style of fado music. South of Coimbra is the considerably more ancient

site of Conimbriga, the most important Roman remains in Portugal . Beiras is also dotted with thermal spas where people flock to take the healing waters.

But it's the mountains - the Serra da Estrela - that are truly extraordinary. Strewn with massive boulders, they're wild, beautiful and rarely visited. There are trails across the natural park ranging from half-day walks to three- or four-day hikes. And if you get lost, there's always the Serra da Estrela mountain dog (with a hint of wolf blood) to track you down and get you back on the right path.

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